Best Japanese and Western Saws for Woodworking
The pull-versus-push debate has been settled by most beginners who pick up a Japanese pull saw: the thin kerf, the pull stroke, and the sharp impulse-hardened teeth make clean, accurate cuts easy from day one. Western saws - backsaws, dovetail saws, and rip saws - push on the forward stroke and take more skill to start straight, but they are what most traditional joinery instruction assumes. The answer for most hand-tool woodworkers is one of each: a Japanese pull saw for rough crosscuts and timber work, and a fine Western backsaw for dovetails and tenon cheeks. These picks cover both traditions at every price point.
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The short answer
The Suizan Japanese Pull Saw 9.5-inch Ryoba is the best entry-point Japanese saw for most woodworkers, with rip teeth on one side and crosscut teeth on the other on a thin replaceable blade that cuts faster than a push saw of equivalent cost. For Western-style joinery, the Lie-Nielsen Dovetail Saw is the precision instrument the community uses for cutting dovetails and tenon cheeks.
Lie-Nielsen Dovetail Saw (15 TPI Rip)
The Western backsaw the American hand-tool community uses as the benchmark for dovetail work. Lie-Nielsen's dovetail saw uses a bronze back and a highly polished plate with 15 TPI rip teeth filed to cut on the push stroke. The track it leaves in hardwood is remarkably clean and the saw starts easily on a scribed line.
- Bronze back and polished plate make this one of the most pleasant saws to use
- 15 TPI rip teeth cut clean cheeks on dovetails in hardwood
- Starts on a scribed knife line reliably - a mark of a well-made dovetail saw
- Premium price for a specialty saw that some woodworkers reach for only for dovetails
Suizan Japanese Pull Saw 9.5-Inch Ryoba
The most-recommended entry-point Japanese pull saw for woodworking. The 9.5-inch Suizan ryoba has rip teeth on one side and crosscut teeth on the other on a thin, replaceable impulse-hardened blade. Cuts far faster than a push saw of comparable price and tracks straight in the cut without the technique needed for Western push saws.
- Rip and crosscut teeth on one blade - versatile for most shop crosscuts and rips
- Thin kerf cuts fast with minimal effort compared to Western saws
- Replaceable blade when dull - the body outlasts many blades
- Impulse-hardened teeth cannot be resharpened - blade replacement is the maintenance plan
Z-Saw Dozuki 240mm (Fine Crosscut with Spine)
Z-Saw's dozuki is the Japanese equivalent of a Western backsaw: a spine-stiffened, fine-toothed pull saw for precise joinery cuts. The spine prevents deflection when cutting tenon cheeks, dovetail baselines, and precision crosscuts in thin stock. Z-Saw blades are widely regarded as the best value in the Japanese dozuki category.
- Spine-stiffened blade prevents deflection in precision joinery cuts
- Fine teeth leave a clean kerf in hardwood - rivals a Western dovetail saw
- Replaceable blade design for a long service life
- Spine limits maximum depth of cut - not a general ripping tool
Gyokucho Razorsaw 240mm Crosscut
A specialist single-purpose crosscut pull saw from one of Japan's oldest and most respected saw makers. The Gyokucho Razorsaw is lighter and more precise than a ryoba for crosscut-only work, with a thin plate and finely spaced crosscut teeth. The community uses these for final trimming, flushing plugs, and clean precision crosscuts.
- Precision crosscut teeth from a maker with generations of saw-making heritage
- Thin plate reduces kerf and produces clean cuts in hardwood
- Lighter than a ryoba for extended trimming and flush-cutting work
- Single-purpose crosscut only - get a ryoba if you need rip and crosscut in one tool
Crown (Pax) 20 TPI Dovetail Saw
Crown Tools of Sheffield makes what many consider the best-value Western dovetail saw in production. The 20 TPI fleam-filed teeth cut cleanly across and with the grain for dovetail cheeks and baselines. The saw comes ready to use after light tuning and performs at a level far above its price.
- Sheffield-made with fleam-filed teeth that cut cleanly for dovetail work
- 20 TPI fine pitch leaves a clean kerf in hardwood
- Best value Western dovetail saw in production - widely praised by hand-tool community
- Arrives needing a light tune and tooth-set check for optimal performance
Suizan Japanese Flush Cut Pull Saw
A specialty pull saw with teeth filed flush to the plate so the saw can trim wooden plugs, dowels, and tenon ends flush with a surface without scratching. The flexible plate bends to conform to the work surface. One of the most frequently used specialty saws in a furniture-making shop.
- Flush-set teeth cut level to the surface without marring the surrounding wood
- Flexible plate conforms to curved and flat surfaces
- Pull-saw action makes flush cuts far easier than a push saw
- Too delicate for rough crosscuts - this is a specialty finishing-and-joinery tool only
Bahco 22-Inch Hardpoint Handsaw
The best Western handsaw for rough crosscutting, ripping, and general carpentry at a budget price. Bahco is a Swedish tool brand with strong quality control. Hardpoint teeth cannot be resharpened but last longer than filed teeth under heavy use. The 22-inch length handles timber and panel work that shorter saws struggle with.
- Swedish quality control at a price that makes it expendable for rough work
- Hardpoint teeth cut fast and last well under heavy use
- 22-inch plate handles full sheet and timber crosscuts
- Hardpoint teeth cannot be resharpened - replacement is the only option when dull
The method
How we chose
We evaluated each option on fit, build quality, daily usability, and value. Our top pick, Lie-Nielsen Dovetail Saw (15 TPI Rip), earned the spot because the best western dovetail saw in production. pays for itself in the pleasure of using it. The comparison above highlights exactly who each pick is best for.
Related guides
Head-to-head comparisons
FAQ
Best Japanese and Western Saws for Woodworking: FAQ
Japanese pull saw or Western push saw: which should a beginner start with?+
A Japanese pull saw is easier for beginners. The pull stroke keeps the blade under tension so it tracks straight without the technique needed to start a push saw true. The thin kerf means less material removed and less effort per stroke. Start with a Japanese ryoba for crosscuts and rips, and add a Western backsaw when you begin cutting dovetails and tenons where traditional instruction expects a push saw.
What is a ryoba saw versus a kataba saw?+
A ryoba has teeth on both sides of the blade - typically crosscut teeth on one side and rip teeth on the other. A kataba has teeth on one side only and a stiffened spine or open blade depending on the intended cut. Ryoba saws are more versatile for general work. Kataba saws, especially spine-stiffened dozuki saws, excel at precision cuts like tenon cheeks where the spine keeps the blade rigid.
Can I sharpen a Japanese saw myself?+
Impulse-hardened Japanese saw teeth cannot be resharpened with a file - the heat treatment makes them too hard. When the blade dulls, you replace it. This is by design: replaceable blades cost a few dollars and the body lasts indefinitely, making the total cost lower than sharpening a Western saw repeatedly. Western backsaws can be resharpened with saw files, which is a useful skill but takes practice.
What is a dozuki saw used for?+
A dozuki is a fine-toothed Japanese pull saw with a stiffening spine along the back, similar in concept to a Western tenon or dovetail saw. The spine keeps the blade rigid for precision cuts in joinery - cutting tenon cheeks, fine crosscuts in thin stock, and joinery work where accuracy is more important than the depth of cut the spine prevents. It is the Japanese equivalent of a Western backsaw.
What Western saw do I need for cutting dovetails?+
A dovetail saw: a short, fine-toothed, spine-backed Western push saw with 15 to 20 tpi. The spine keeps the blade stiff, and the fine teeth leave a clean kerf in hardwood. The Lie-Nielsen Dovetail Saw and the Crown dovetail saw are the most referenced tools for this at premium and mid-market prices. The teeth are filed with a slight fleam to cut cleanly across the grain as well as with the rip pattern needed for dovetail cheeks.